gpasquin@my-dejanews.com wrote
It would seem to me that with an interwoven fabric, multiple layers would be much better than one. i.e. Instead of getting 2 layers of 6oz on the deckit would be better to get 3 layers of 4 oz. Same weight with more strength?
Right, though actually I think it would be lighter. Thinner cloth, therefore less resin.
On an aside, are layers of glass resined over one at a time or can you just put down two layers of glass and then resin over the top of them all at once?
I have done both ways. I'd guess, not having really tested it, that the multiple laminations, one by one, are stronger and lighter. What I do know, from a little research a couple of years back, is that the strongest laminations are around a 60/40 ratio -cloth/resin, by weight. This is difficult to do without vaccum bagging and hightech tooling. With a squeegee, as is usual in surfboards, a practiced glasser can get about 50/50.
Now, one thing is that this is the strongest (tensile strength) but not the stiffest layup.
More resin makes for a stiffer layer, more resistant to pressure like we all use when checking out a new board in the shop. The old 'can I squash it with my thumbs' test, you know....
Then there is hotcoating, to fill the weave of the cloth after laminating. This definitely adds weight and some stiffness. I'm going to say that if you used a satin weave cloth (E-Glass) it will take less resin to fill the weave than a plain weave.
More? Okay, try www.fibreglast.com or a search for 'fiberglass laminates'.
good luck Doc
To clear up a few things about Epoxy Resins-
Epoxy continues to cure for quite a while after it's hardened. The stuff also goes yellow over time, which is (according to the makers of at least one epoxy board line) due to the continued curing of the epoxy.While it cures it gives off certain compounds that some people react to strongly. It also breaks down rather badly in sunlight unless some sort of sunscreen is mixed in. I'm not making this up, check out Patagonia's spec sheets at http://www.patagonia.com/ . Really rather enlightening.
As to whether or not epoxy is stronger than polyester, depends on the epoxy (and the polyester-many different kinds and formulations are available), the type of cloth it is used with (glass, Kevlar, carbon fiber) and so on.
Epoxy (room temperature cure types, as commonly used in boats and boards) breaks down at lower temperatures than polyester (some common epoxies break down and go soft at 120 degrees F) and reacts/breaks down more quickly in UV light. Some epoxy resins have UV protection built in, true, but how that affects the strength and other factors is something you'd have to get from the spec sheets for that particular resin. One UV resistant type is System Three's SB112 (or 113) sailboard/surfboard resin.
Now, I know somebody is going to say 'but Brand X has this type 123B resin that doesn't do that'. Okay, fine, it doesn't.
Now, as to foams. Polyurethane foam for surfboard use is usually molded into blanks that are quite close to the finished shape. Again, usually the foam is a bit denser near the surface of the blank, making it tougher and more crushproof. Polystyrene foams (and there are a few of those) usually comes in billets, which not only need a lot of shaping (a 2'x 1'x 10' block of foam) but is pretty much uniform density throughout.Generally the polystyrene is softer.
Last, polyester resin/polyurethane foam surfboard construction is a technology that has been pretty much perfected. Epoxy/polystyrene surfboards....not yet. I'm waiting until the Patagonias (and others) have been out a few more years before I'm sure of how well they will hold up. The epoxy boards I have seen so far have not impressed me. There are, as far as I can see, some real problems with the process that haven't been worked out.
Doc
SURFGEO wrote
doc.....i really appreciate the in-depth explanation
there, i have 2 epoxy resin/eps foam boards, the blanks were from greg loehr.
initially, i loved them. light and rode really well, but i am having major
structural problems.
however, there is a guy here in texas named Henry Fry whom makes his own EPS blanks. he used to use loehrs blanks, but he now has a blank with a very good texture that shapes very cleanly, and is surprisingly light even by epoxy/eps standards. he uses something like 3 layers of 4 oz S2 glass on top, and 2 layers on bottom. he claims this is the end-all to boards, and that his boards are the absolute best and no one can come near, in short, this is the new messiah as far as surfboards are concerned. his boards START at $620,and thats all clear with a plain single stringer. ouch.
You don't want to know what boards cost in New England. Shipping and such take the price really high.
As epoxy runs from $50 to over $100 a gallon (in the small lots I use) compared to $18.95 per gallon for polyester, I can see where his prices come from. Add to that the expense (and R&D) that goes into the EPS blank development (check on how much R&D Gordon Clark did back in the early days...I am sure there is a comparable amount in the EPS technology) and I'd have to say the prices probably are not all that high, considering.
several of my friends have bought them lately, but i am waiting to see how his boards stand the test of time before i even think about laying down that much cash.
Wise move. One thing in favor is that he's putting in a lot of glass. There is such a premium put on 'light' these days. Another couple of pounds isn't going to change much about a board other than the durability.
As I said, though, the jury's still out on epoxy/EPS.>
my question to you is have you ever heard of him/ or his blanks?
Heard of him, some vague info about the blanks.
what is your assessment?
Don't know enough to say.
next, who are you and how did you obtain your experience in this area?
Thirty years in the surf biz, selling boards and fixing them. The Loehrs and the Blakes (epoxy) that I have seen haven't impressed me at all. Light, but not durable. Bond problems, resin to foam and resin to resin. Glosses and hotcoats flaking...production problems.
Also,I have been a boatbuilder for most of my adult life. Which gave me a permanent cynicism about the 'miracle whips' the epoxy industry has been pushing. WEST (Wildly Expensive Shoddy Technique ) brochures will claim that the stuff will do everything up to curing the common cold. Take a look at Deja News, if you have the chance, for some of the screaming that goes on in rec.boats.building about epoxy vs traditional methods of boat building and repair. There are a lot of starry eyed amateurs building some rather shaky boats that I wouldn't take across a shallow pond.
if you dont know of him, i will be glad to put you in touch with him so you can either debunk or support what he is doing.
I wish him well. R&D of something like this is frustrating, thankless work. You can't succeed every time you try something new, and you do catch hell for every little thing that goes wrong.
Glad it's not me doing it.Doc
And I got a message from b down at Henry Fry's down in Texas. He was kind enough to fill me in on how things are being done right now:
NICE PAGE GUYS
Just finished scanning it and was impressed
I
work with Henry Fry and Wyman Wade at Fry surfboards in Houston Texas
A
note on the EPS/Epoxy boards we build
Henry has been working with this
for close to ten years and has a very
respectable product.
The
materials we are using now are the best available (research research) and
we
have minimal problems with delams and discoloration, the strength of the
boards and the flotation make a big difference from polyester.
I
agree about the curing time problems for repair but it does not present a
problem in the manufacture. Our resins will cure in 3 to 4 hrs letting us
glass both sides in one day. We sand the entire board the next day before
fill coating with polyester and have good results this way.
I have
been surfing one of these for almost two years and am very pleased.
The
only problem that I see as an issue, and we're working on that is water
soaking the foam. Damage into the foam (which is very unlikely because of
the
strength) can result in water soaking, if the board is surfed for an
extended
period. Mylar tape and 5 minute epoxy resolve that
problem.
We use 3 layers of s-type 4oz cloth on the bottom wrapping the
rails and 3
layers on the top with a 3/4 length deck patch.
see
ya
b
Now, I might add a little something to that if I may; all boards suffer from water leakage, not any one type. The 'regular' polyurethane foam /polystyrene resin boards as well....maybe more so. The temporary repairs recommended above work for all boards, not just epoxy, and I strongly recommend them.
From the sounds of it, Fry Surfboards has a good handle on what epoxy is all about. Hope to see some up this way soon.
Gleshna wrote. Does anyone have any information of shapers in the Southern California area that are using SVF/Epoxy to make their boards? Also, is anyone using one today and why do they not seem to be all that popular?
I have never made one of these beast all though I toyed with the idea. I got to ride one once, and it was quite different. It seemed to ride higher (float better) and was lighter in weight. I had this idea I could make a killer light, narrow, and thin longboard that would surf very much like a short. I also liked the idea of the closed cell foam.
So, a couple years ago I dropped into a place in Oceanside where they were being made. The real problem, as I saw it, was the curing process. Don't know if it's still the same, but it was cost and time prohibitive for my dinko operation.
My $.02:
Epoxy costs more, is lighter, is stronger, and is much harder to sand than polyester resin.
Okay, as I just got finished doing some epoxy repairs...... I do a lot of them, being the only idiot around here who wanted to invest in the resins and the time to learn the tricks.
Epoxy sure does cost more; $66-110 per gallon vs. $18 or less for polyester. Forget WEST system, by the way. Vastly overpriced. There are a few resin makers (RAKA is one) who sell the stuff without the vast amount of advertising; it's a lot cheaper.
Epoxy works with any kind of foam, Polyester eats polystyrene foam, use it with polyurethane foam only. .
With Polyester, you can add a little more or less catalyst, waxes, acetone and what have you to make it work in particular situations and conditions. Catalyst (MEK) is catalyst, works with any polyester resin.
Epoxy works with Cabosil and other fillers as well as Polyester, but you are stuck with (sorry about that choice of words) the Part A (resin) to Part B (hardener) mix, which dries slowly. Up to 24 hours to get it workable/sandable.
You can't mix the stuff from different brands of epoxy or different types within a brand. If you use epoxy in a wide range of temperatures, it may pay you to use an epoxy that has slow, medium and fast hardeners. This gets kinda pricy.
Sunlight and epoxy- thing is that some (notably the System 3 #113 sailboard resin system) incorporate a UV shield. Which doesn't mean much. Some epoxies you are better off pigmenting opaque white.
Last, if you are buying an older board, steer clear of epoxy. While some are great, there were a lot of the earlier epoxy boards that had serious delam problems, notably Blakes and Loehrs. They hadn't figured out all the tricks than, some makers still haven't. That will show up and there is really nothing to do about it except maybe make a table out of it. On the other hand, as I mention above, Fry Surfboards in Texas seems to have a handle on it now. Have a look
Good Luck
Doc
Proprietor,
Acme Industrial Strength Ding Repair
Cape Cod
Current experimentation from Patagonia and Surftech revolves around using EPS or expanded polystyrene foam which is open celled instead of the closed cell polyurethane that Clark Foam uses. It's like your styrofoam coffee cup, a bunch of small granules of foam that water can leak around. Most sailboards already use EPS foam but you can also find closed cell polystyrene from some sources. A guy named Stretch in Santa Cruz works with closed cell polystyrene. (*note! Patagonia/Point blanks has just shifted to closed cell foam)
Closed cell foam like EPS allows water to flow through the foam very easily, moving around the little cells, so if you ding a board it will suck in lots of water if you don't get it to dry land soon. The foam is also very sensitive to pressure/temperature changes so don't leave these boards in your car or in the sun. Sailboards usually have drain plugs which can be left open to allow air to flow in/out for the temperature and pressure changes and closed once the board is in the water. While closed cell foam (either polystyrene or polyurethane) will not soak up water like open celled foam, it will slowly soak up water and degrade (turn mushy and yellow) while in contact with it.
Open cell polystyrene (EPS) and closed cell polystyrene are somewhat harder overall than Clark Foam (polyurethane) so you can use a lower density (lighter) foam yet have the same or more strength in the blank. Also, polyester resin which is commonly used on polyurethane foam melts right through polystyrene so you must use epoxy on polystyrene blanks. 'Polyester resin' contains styrenes, among other things, so it dissolves polystyrene foam very nicely.
What's more, polystyrene is a thermoplastic while polyurethane is a thermosetting plastic. What does that mean? Thermosettingplastics have set up and they won't melt again...though they burn quite nicely. Thermoplastics like styrene foam melt when heated up enough, which makes shaping them with conventional shaping tools....ahm....lets just say it's Really Difficult and leave it at that. A standard power planer doesn't plane the stuff, it just leaves a kind of glazed gouge. Coarse sanding discs seem to be the way to go.
"Dr. Slice" wrote:
Anyone know the details on how to construct a George Greenough spoon type kneeboard, i.e. flexible? Cloth weight, number of layers, etc?
Doug Haia mentioned a mold and injected foam method, which would work okay.
Here is another one-better if you want to experiment a bit.
First, get hold of a really thick blank, 4" or so. If it is polyurethane (standard surfboard foam), great. Use standard with surfboard resin.
Otherwise, you may have to go with some of the expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) billets that are being used in windsurfers and such. Then you have to go with epoxy resin. I like the System Three resins, myself.
Shape the bottom and rails. with standard shaping tools. Glass them with heavy glass-say 8oz or heavier. Take care to get a good, smooth lamination. Also, if you are using surfboard resin, use slow batches-this makes the flexibility happen without being brittle.
With epoxy, you are pretty much stuck with the resin as it comes from the factory, though you can use a 'slow hardener' as recommended for high (70°F and higher) air temperatures to make a stronger, more flexible laminate.
Shape away the foam in the deck area until you get to the glass on the bottom. There are several tools that are good for this, notably a Stanley Surform. You may be able to find one that is curved, (they made a few that way) which is really handy for this. Screen paper is good at the last, as it won't chew into the glass. Use templates to get the classic 'toilet seat' foam shape.
Glass the deck, repeatedly. I would use 8oz or lighter. At least three layers, more with lighter cloth. Taper (step back) the laminations from the tail to give the flex you want, leaving at least two layers at the tail.
Glass on a fin (they were singlefins). Take care not to use too much glass and resin when you do this, as it makes a rigid spot. Some of Greenough's boards featured a removable fin, as he was using these boards as test beds for his fin designs. I recall that these fins were screwed through the deck, probably using a drilled and tapped hole in the fin.
You may wind up making your own fin, to get the flex right and in addition you get something to test-how flexible is a 3 layer laminate, a 2 layer, a 4 layer, etc. Do this first and you will have a better idea of just how many layers to use to get the desired flex.
Bear in mind that 'desired flex' is up to you, and you will want to make some experiments. Because of this, it might be a good idea to make your deck laminations in different colors. That will make sanding laminations (to try a little more flex) a whole lot easier. For an idea of what I mean, look at an older glass fin, such as an early Rainbow.
Other considerations- You can, roughly, calculate how much foam volume the board will have. Keep in mind that there are two reasons to use foam- to give something easily shaped as a mold/form and also to give floatation. If you don't leave enough foam, the board will sink. Bummer.
Okay, that should get you started-Good luck
Doc
gpasquin@my-dejanews.com wrote
One thing I have found out is that there is a lot to building surfboardsand it is best left up to the experts for the details! Yes, I am sure everyone can build there own board fairly easily (as Gleshna has proven) but will it really stand up against professinally built boards? I don't think so!
Thanks,
Gioni>
I heard, years ago, a rule of thumb: you have to shape a couple of thousand boards to be a good production shaper. Getting really comfortable with the tools and all, learning from somebody who was already a pro. Working out your theories of shaping, what works and what doesn't. It's one thing to see a board in the surf shop and say it works, but actually putting it all together is another trick entirely.
Then there is glassing technique. Formulating resin mixes, catalysing the stuff just right for temperature, humidity and all (because even if you have a hell of an air conditioning system, the wife or the mom is going to be a bit miffed if you're glassing in the living room.) and doing that consistently. Getting a good, light, strong lamination takes practice, lots and lots of practice.
Sanding. Taking a big, heavy, high powered tool that can eat though the glass if you hiccup and spoil all the work that has gone into it so far. Sanders, pro sanders, are the Rodney Dangefield of the surfboard industry, they 'don't get no respect' but they really should, it's a highly skilled trade.
As a rough guess, at least a quarter of those boards are going to be pretty lousy. That is, boards that you really can't sell for what they cost you to make. Coffee tables, just add legs. They burn pretty good too.
Kind of a big investment. The price of the blank, the fins, the cloth and the resin....forget the labor.Gioni's right. I'll leave it to the pros too.
Doc
Gone Gasser wrote:
Can you use automotive Bondo for patching up dings?
Gone Gasser
You can, but theres a few things to think about before using the stuff.
Other, similar products like Marine Tex and several of the fiberglass
paste/puttys for marine use, are also kinda heavy. Pricy too. And Marine Tex is
miserable stuff to sand.
There are some alternatives:
You can add one of the 'thixotropic
additives', which are either Cabosil or microballoons. The Cabosil (and there
are a couple of trade names for the stuff) is a nice white powder that mixes
into either styrene or epoxy resin to make a useful filler. It is a little
heavier than microballoons, but the microballoons are a brownish color which
looks sort of like oldcoffee. Either one sands pretty well. When it has hardened
to a hard gel you can rough shape it with an xacto knife or a Stanley Surform or
a wood rasp.
Saves a lot of time.
I use the Cabosil. I like to make the resin/Cabosil mix about the consistency of yogurt, as that way there is less chance of air bubbles getting trapped in there which sometimes happens if you make it too thick. The air bubbles cause cracks and such, and if you sand into one, well, there is this void that you have to fill, and then sand-it's adrag. Also, when you use thickeners the stuff acts to slow down the reaction. That's good, as you are usually putting it in pretty thick, so as it goes off (and gives off heat) the reaction gets speeded up, so it's kind of a wash. If you're in doubt, go light on the catalyst.
If you are not using 'sanding resin' you will need to add a little styrene wax so that it will completely harden.
Again, you should glass over the filler. Otherwise it can crack and fall out or leak, you get the picture.
I have heard of people using sugar as a filler. Never tried it, but I am told it works and simulates the appearance of new foam. Believe it when I see it.
Good luck Doc
Andy Anderson wrote in message
If all you ride is a longboard, you get the feel for the tail and proper preasure points. It's a good feeling to grip the turn of the rail with your toes in a hard bottom turn. Tail patches with some extra thickness are a good thing if you have a quiver or constantly change boards.
If you ride a modern longboard, I'd put on a deckpatch or stomp pad, a thick one. Not for grip, for longevity. As most folks seem to stomp their turns and ding the deck on newer, lightly glassed boards (strip off the wax and take a look).
I have seen a lot of those heel dings turn into major delams. I hate trying to fix deck delams.
Doc
Hamm wrote
someone was surfing my board (single fin) and rode it really shallow and broke the fin clear off of the board. I am going to get it fixed, and i want to make sure i don't get ripped off. So if anyone knows how much this usually costs to fix, let me know. I still have the fin.
Matt
It depends- you're asking a question that is kinda open ended.
How much damage was done to the glass and foam when the fin got crunched, how big the fin is and so on. Most singlefins I see these days have fin boxes- if this is the case, then you have a more serious problem. The size of a single fin means that a glassed on fin needs somewhat more reinforcement which is more work and more materials.
What I charge for a fin replacement varies, say $15 ( easy side fin repair, original fin still around) to $125 (new box, new fin, major foam and glass damage needing repair, board owned by Volvo driver with gold card and attititude).
Doc
Andy Anderson wrote in message lp wrote in message andy,
Sorry, it's Dextra. I was trying to recall from memory since i was sending from work. do you know anything about the shaper/board and/or dating?
To the best of my records, Dextra made boards in Los Angeles, CA, between 1965 and 1968, producing models such as "Royal Hawaiian", "Cutlass", "Cutlass/Tandem" and "Fat Fanny". Their use of matt glass suggests that some of their boards may have been "pop-outs".
In fact, virtually all were popouts. Sometime around 1968 or so there were a few "Dextra Custom"s made. They sold poorly, as Dextra's credibility was toast by then. They made several other brands such as "Healthways" and "Hawaiian Custom" that were sold by Sears, among other chains.
A note on the wood in the board. In some cases the 'stringer' wasn't really a stringer at all, just a band of veneer that had been placed in the mold before the foam was added. You can tell, sometimes, by how the wood on the top and bottom of the board don't line up..
Even before they were waterlogged, they were awful heavy...
Doc
lp wrote
i'm not sure if i understand what pop-out is. it sounds like you're talking about a pre-formed or molded board. is that what pop-out means?
Right on the money: popped out of a mold and the glassed. No shaping involved.
it sounds like from a collector's standpoint, it's probably not worth muchwhich is ok because for me the board is fun and has incredible down the linespeed (ie, 9'6", ~19" wide, 5-6"thick). i'll check on the stringer situation you mentioned.
Right, not worth all that much. I remember in about 1974 or so.... "Hey, man, what kind of tradein will you give me? I want a Weber Ski and I have a 9'6" Dextra"
"Uh, kid, I really don't want it at all.....heres five bucks to take it away and burn it.."
And with the current longboard fad, well, it's a slightly different thing. A few years ago, during the 'Buy an old longboard at any price' era I sold a couple for $195 each. Considering they went for about $95-125 new, I really wonder.
still not sure why it weighs so frigin much or is it kinda like how whenyou get a bike at Sears they weigh 20lbs more than a decent bike because they use inexpensive materials?
Bingo! Cheap materials, the customers they were aiming for were none too sophisticated. If you can't build it well, build it strong. Lay on the glass HEAVY! And fiberglass matt (nonwoven, sort of like felt) at that.
They go down the line fast for a reason: bloody little rocker in those things. Don't turn too well though.
When I see one out, usually leashless, I think of it as bowling for swimmers.
Good luck
Doc
C. Myron Ware wrote I got the FCS system on my funboard and I have no complaints about them. It lets me stack the boards less staggered on top of the car since I can take the fins out. The only down side to all these types of systems is that the fins aren't too cheap, so you can't experiment unless you've got some bucks to drop on extra fins.
HTH,
Myron
srf
i'm due for ordering up a new short board and a 7'8"( not a long board or fun-board). i'm considering getting the new screw-in fin system for both boards.
While I am not all that impressed with the FCS system, it does work.
A suggestion, though. I have been in the surf business for over twenty years and I have seen a lot of fin systems come and go. Waveset, Guidance and some others, all the way back to the Hansen system and the Weber Wonder Bolt setup. You just plain cannot get new fins for these boards if the old one gets broken or lost. As a ding guy, I can make new fins, but it's kinda costly.
So the suggestion is this-expensive though they are, shell out the cash for an extra set of fins and stash them someplace. At worst, you can sell them when you sell the board and get some of your money back. At best, you can keep a favorite board going .
Let me correct that.........
I've recently had a lot more experience with FCS fins...and ya know, they are about the best small fin system going. Here's why;
So...if you are gonna have side fins or removable smaller fins on your next board, specify FCS.
Doc
vandyke@plinet.com wrote in message <35d70057.1832117@news.supernews.com>... >Someone I surfed with yesterday asked me to repost this: >There is a much easier way.>
And a few other tricks, from an old boatbuilder.....
Put a strip of masking tape carefully down the stringer of the board whose planshape you are copying. Make precise pencil marks every inch> At each pencil mark, take a T-square and measure from the center of the stringer to the rail (use another T-square to establish where the curved rail really ends.) Number a piece of notebook paper from "1" to the last inch Just record the measurements on a list on a piece of notebook paper. A 9'3" will have a list from 1 to 111.
In the boat biz we call these 'offsets' . One every inch isn't necessary, you can go to a larger spacing, say 4" or so. If there is something non-smooth, say a squash tail or the like, trace it on a separate piece of cardboard.
.Take a roll of brown wrapping paper and lay it on the floor. Or a piece of 1/4" plywood- lauan is cheap and even better, can be reused many many times, if you want to make other boards. Cardboard too.
Take the T-square and list and put a precise dot at each 1" stringer interval where the rail will be. Use scissors and connect the dots. With 1" between dots, it will not take a lot of artistry to do this smoothly.
Or, tack a thin piece of wood (clear, straight grained pine is best) down connecting the dots. Use a utility/sheetrock knife to cut the cardboard. If you went with plywood you'll have to cut it with a saw Making rail templates is a VERY GOOD IDEA too. Similar method.
>Skin the blank. Use a power planer to take enough crap off the blank >to make it just smooth enough to work with.
For those who either don't have a power planer or are not too sure of their skill with one, a Stanley Surform works well. Get the long model, it's harder to make ugly gouges with one of those than the short variety.
>Tape the brown paper planshape to your newly skinned blank precisely >along the stringer..> >Carefully trace the outline onto the blank with a "sharpie" magic>marker.> >Flip the paper template over. Retape it exactly true down the stringer>again.> >Do the same thing.> >Use a SkilSaw with a METAL cutting blade (has not teeth, just a disk) >and follow the tracing on the blank. That kind of blade will tend to >make smoother curves and will not go berserk and chew up your $79 plus >freight blank.
If you have access to a bandsaw, use it with the widest blade you have. Plywood blades in a skilsaw work well too-small teeth. And don't forget top cut a little wide of the line. And a handsaw will do in a pinch. Angle the blade about 45 degree so you can follow the curve.
>Figure out what the hell you want for thicknesses and use a SANDING >BLOCK not a planer to get you there. (The block should be a 1 by 4 >with coarse paper glued to it. I like mine about 18" wide. You'll get >the idea once you do it.) Use board-length motions to sand. Use >calipers to know when you are close and where you need to alter thethickess.
You can make your own calipers from lightweight plywood, a stove bolt and a wing nut. It's not a bad idea to put handles on the sanding block, like on a plane. Easier to use than a couple of blocks just nailed on. Self-sticking sandpaper is available that is a lot easier than gluing or else use the spray glue/adhesive sold for sanding discs, a good auto parts store will have it.
>>Figure out what you want for rails. Good luck. Planer time. Take it >slow and smooth. Every pass of the planer should go the whole length >of the board as smoothly as you can walk it.
Again, the surform can be substituted for the power plane. And if you are not very comfortable with a planer, then don't use one here. Angle it a bit to get the whole width of your cut at once.
>Use a sheet rock mesh screen (the hardware guy knows what this is) to >fine shape the rails and blend all your planer passes together. Hold >it by the ends and let the screen curve itself to the rail - - like >the way a shoe shiner holds the polishing rag.>
This is also called 'screen paper'. Nice stuff for soft materials and it doesn't clog.
You are ready to glass.
>If you do it this way, the template prep is faster (you aren't going >to be a manufacturer you just may want a few boards from the >planshape) and the shaping is slower than the pros who use planers all >day every day.> >Chances are you will come out with something close to what you wanted >if you do it this way.> >If it's not, take it to a surf shop and consign it. You will get the >materials cost back so you can go try it again.
But not my shop, please.Doc
Are you sick of this yet? Okay, wanna read some surf stories or go back to the index page. Otherwise, just hit the Back key to go look at more ding fixes..